On to the Rockies
Col. Henry Dodge marched from Fort Leavenworth, Kan., on May 28, 1835. One hundred twenty-five United States Dragoons and their officers pressed into Indian country along the Platte River, with the ultimate goal of reaching the Rocky Mountains. Their mission was to hold councils with Plains tribes to establish an understanding of peace, not only with the United States, but among the tribes themselves who were constantly warring with one another.
By the time the command broke camp on July 7 west of present-day Superior, Neb., they had held council with Otto, Omaha, Pawnee and Arikara chiefs. Their next objective was to find the Cheyenne and Arapaho villages in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains.
Col. Dodge’s adjutant, Lt. Gaines P. Kingsbury, authored the official journal of the expedition. By July 9, the expedition was west of present-day Brule, Neb. Kingsbury wrote, “The elements of the scene now were an unbounded prairie, a broad river with innumerable herds of buffalo grazing upon it banks and occasionally, a solitary tree standing in bold relief against the clear blue sky. The elements, combined with the skill of nature’s artist, formed one of the finest landscapes I had ever seen.” Kingsbury underscored the power of this scene, adding, “The buffalo surrounded us in large herds, making the prairie almost black by their immense numbers.”
They were now on what was known as “the neutral ground” extending from the forks of the Platte River to nearly the foot of the Rocky Mountains. No tribe lived permanently within the neutral ground, although the Arapahos and Cheyennes would occupy the country in the summer for their buffalo hunts.
That evening, they camped near a cottonwood grove, the first timber that had been seen since leaving the forks of the Platte over 50 miles to the east. Kingsbury noted the remarkably fine weather, “the air clear and pure, with a fresh breeze from the mountains.”
Remaining an extra day in camp, hunters were sent out, bringing in an abundance of buffalo meat. A large drove of wild horses passed in the distance.
Leaving pleasant surroundings, the expedition soon entered a land of prickly pear and wild sage. Dry creek beds cut though a “very sandy” landscape. Buffalo were never out of their sight and more wild horses visited them on their march.
By July 15, they had marched another 100 miles. Kingsbury noted the crossing of “a serpentine creek of considerable size, believed to be Beaver Creek (near present- day Brush, Colo.). A deserted Indian camp was “supposed to have been lately occupied by the Arapahos.” The poles of their medicine lodge were left standing with “some of the emblems of their worship, such as buffalo heads, painted arrows, etc.” Clouds that had obscured the horizon throughout the day cleared away before dusk. Supposed clouds on the edge of the horizon were discovered to be conical peaks that revealed “a beautiful bird’s eye view of the Rocky Mountains.”
The effect was exhilarating. “The sight was hailed with joy by the whole command. The rays of the setting sun upon their snow-clad summits gave to them a beautiful and splendid appearance.”
Each day that they drew closer to the mountains, the South Platte River ran colder, clearer, narrower and more rapid. An abundant growth of timber sheltered an undergrowth of plums, cherries, gooseberries and others.
By July 24, the very cold, crystal clear South Platte issued out of the mountains as a rapid torrent. Turning south, they marched toward the divide between the South Platte and the Arkansas rivers. Traveling parallel with the mountains, the first range of mountains hid the second range from view. Only when passing deep ravines and passes were the snow tops of the second and higher ranges revealed. Lt. Kingsbury noted on July 26 (near present-day Colorado Springs),“The mountains were in the form of an immense fortification with turrets and rock-covered battlements ... The different passes between the mountains appeared to be guarded by large, terraced watchtowers.” The origins of the Fontaine que Bouille (Spring That Boils), today’s Fountain Creek, were investigated near the foot of Pikes Peak. Remaining in the area, the command ascended one of the peaks on July 28. “From the top of this we had a beautiful and extensive view of the country for many miles; we saw the timber upon the Arkansas and the Platte, and a large extent of waving prairie country lying between the two rivers. To the right, at an immense distance, we could see the feathery and indistinct outline of the Spanish Peaks (100 miles south) just rising above the visible horizon, while in our rear there lay a long succession of high ranges of mountains, until the snowy summits of the last and highest appeared to meet and mingle with the clouds.”
The command had reached the “long-wished-for object of all our hopes.” Their expectations had been exceeded in every way. Standing triumphantly among the clouds, Col. Dodge and his men well knew that the completion of the mission was yet to be realized with their return to Fort Leavenworth. But for now, they could bask in the knowledge that their quest for peace across the plains to the Rocky Mountains had achieved remarkable success on The Way West.
(Next Time – Homeward Bound)